An unlikely boom town

Despite — and because of — potential disaster looming above the town of Pahoa, restaurants are experiencing a boom in business.

For the last few weeks, ever since it became apparent that the June 27 lava flow might hit Pahoa and/or cross Highway 130, tourists and locals alike have been flocking to lower Puna to get in a last meal and a last look, should the little town be destroyed.

Restaurateurs in the area said last week that they’ve seen upticks in business of between 20 and 30 percent.

“We’ve had a big influx in business because of the lava flow,” said Paul Utes, owner and operator of Black Rock Cafe. “I’ve had quite a few of them (customers) tell me, ‘This might be the last time we eat in Pahoa.’

“It’s like a double-edged sword. It makes me feel good that people want to come down and support Pahoa before it potentially disappears, but at the same time, the thought of getting run over with lava is pretty scary.”

He added that conversations at the bar among patrons have pretty much uniformly been focused on the lava.

“‘Is it gonna stop?’ ‘Where’s it gonna go?’ ‘Gosh, Paul, we hope it doesn’t hit your place,’ and, ‘Where are we gonna go for a drink, you’re the only place with enough TVs.’ That’s what people are saying,” he said.

Utes has owned the bar and restaurant for about 9 years, but the business location used to belong to his grandparents, who opened a Dairy Queen in the storefront in 1965. There’s a lot of history and a lot of money wrapped up in the business, he said, all of which could be in jeopardy.

“I had a five-hour conversation with my insurance agent the other day, going through all the scenarios. What if off-premise destruction happens and I don’t have utilities? Will I be covered for spoilage?” he said.

Pahoa Fresh Fish, located in Pahoa Marketplace, was packed to the gills on Tuesday during lunch. All tables were full, and there was a line 10 people deep waiting to order.

As it turned out, some of the diners came from Hilo, including Tammy Kahapea.

“I came out here several times with my mom, who lives in Waimea, so we would come when she was in town. The times I came, it wasn’t full like this. We had tables; we didn’t have to wait in line,” she said.

A woman who identified herself only as Bobbi, said she also drove to Pahoa from Hilo for the food.

“This place has the best fish and chips,” she said.

Lani Hughes, who lives in Hawaiian Beaches, said Pahoa Fresh Fish and No. 1 Chinese BBQ, which is next door, are the two musts for her. She said Pahoa town is bustling with activity, much of it in preparation to escape from the lava that could cross Highway 130.

“I’ve seen U-Haul trucks, Harper trucks, trucks with trailers on the back, people with boxes, mattresses and furniture. And it makes me nervous, because I don’t want to be the last one,” she said.

Luquin’s Mexican Restaurant, next to the Akebono Theater, has been buzzing with crowds for the past couple weeks, with many patrons reporting wait times of an hour or more to be seated during peak meal hours.

Salvador Luquin, owner of the restaurant as well as the theater, was too busy Tuesday afternoon to answer more than a few questions.

“I’d say we’ve gone up about 22 percent,” he said of his business. “Everybody’s been concerned about the lava.”

Despite having much to lose, Luquin said he didn’t anticipate clearing out of the restaurant until the last possible moment.

“We’re just taking it day by day, and we’ll be open to the last day,” he said.

Ophelia Kennealy, who owns Boogie Woogie Pizza and a number of other buildings in Pahoa, said she was trying not to focus on the negative aspects of the lava flow.

“We’re going to be here until they take us kicking and screaming,” she said. “This is our town. This is our town. I’ve been in a 12-mile radius of Pahoa since I was 15 years old. We love our town. If there’s any hope at all of doing anything or helping in whatever way we can, to reach out to the community and the neighborhood, we will.”

Her pizzeria, which has been in operation for 11 years, has seen a big jump in orders, with many coming from scientists and other responders to the lava flow.

“I’d say we’ve seen a 20 percent increase,” she said. “There’s been a lot of the people over at the Community Center ordering pizza.”

Ultimately, though, Kennealy said, the boost for Pahoa shouldn’t be looked at solely as monetary.

“It’s just an awakening for our town, to realize what’s important in life. People are more important than stuff,” she said. “I have a lot to lose. I own five building in Pahoa on this little road. But again, people are more important than stuff. Stuff comes and goes. People are precious.”

Kaleo’s Restaurant also has seen an increase in visitors, said owner Leslie Lai.

“We’ve been seeing it for the past month because of the lava. People are wanting to pay their respects and support Pahoa, and maybe see what Pahoa was. … Then they say they’ll check back with us in a week,” she said with a laugh.

Her 7-year-old restaurant, which focuses on Hawaiian-inspired fine dining, has seen its revenues jump about 25 percent in the past month, Lai said.

Email Colin M. Stewart at cstewart@hawaii tribune-herald.com.