By COLIN M. STEWART
By COLIN M. STEWART
Tribune-Herald Staff Writer
There were plenty of red and irritated eyes, smokey clothes, dirty and singed hands, and big, happy smiles on display Tuesday along Hilo Bay.
That’s because every year on and around the Fourth of July, all manner of smokers and grills are busily firing away for the Hilo Bay BBQ Cook-Off, preparing some of the tastiest, mouthwatering barbecue in the Pacific Rim. Entrants must prepare their finest examples of chili, poke, chicken, pork spare ribs, pork, and brisket.
The event kicked off Monday with early setup, as competition teams from around the state and from the mainland converged on the commuter parking lot along Kamehameha Avenue in Hilo. Tuesday saw the judging in the Chili and Poke competitions.
The event, which serves as the Hawaii State BBQ Championship, draws a range of participants, from the backyard amateurs to the ultra-competitive barbecue big dogs. The cook-off is sanctioned by the International Barbecue Cookers Association.
Perhaps this year’s biggest draw for barbecue fans in the know is Harry Soo, a mild-mannered California information technology worker by day, and world-renowned head cook for Slap Yo’ Daddy BBQ in his off-hours. The pitmaster has racked up a number of impressive awards around the country, including taking third place nationwide last year for his barbecue pork. He has also been featured on the TLC series “BBQ Pitmasters.”
Soo said his dance card is pretty full this week, as he will also have to be in Oakland on Thursday to compete at a cook-off there, and then he’ll be jetting off to London to teach a barbecue class. But on Tuesday, he was entertaining the crowds in Hilo and doling out samples of his chili before judging of the dish began at 3 p.m.
“You’ve tasted the rest, now taste the best!” he said with a grin as he welcomed a group of tasters into his tent.
The cook said he was excited to be competing in the Hilo event, and said while it may not be one of the largest events he’s participated in, there was more than enough aloha thrown his way to make him want to return.
“It’s not about the size of the barbecue competition. It’s about the smiles. Barbecue is about spreading happiness,” he said. “And a symphony of flavors in the mouth.”
Hilo resident Paul Kealoha, a regular contestant in the event, agrees that while claiming a title in the cook-off is certainly something to aspire to, the real reason to be there is for the camaraderie.
“I just like to be here for the fun,” he said. “We’re not out here to make a killing. Just to have fun.”
Even so, Kealoha does have a little score to settle this year. That would be with his son, Puna resident Kekaulike Kealoha, 22. The pair have cooked together for years, but last year Kealoha’s son decided to enter on his own team, and ended up beating his father in judging.
His secret, he said, was cooking for all of his friends at parties.
“They would taste it and tell me what was wrong with it. Add a little of this. Some more of that. I let everyone try my food, and then I would take their comments into account,” he said.
If there were an award for the best team name, it would very likely go to 38-year-old Scott Stone’s “Captain Awesome’s Awesome Sauce.” Stone says he got his recipe for his sauce from his father, and hopes to sell it in stores around the island. This week’s competition is a great way to build a reputation, he explained.
“We’ve been hearing a lot of good things about our sauce and our chili. We feel pretty confident,” he said Tuesday as he tended a rotisserie loaded with golden brown chickens.
Meanwhile, Stone’s friend and teammate Danny Minto tended to the fire by adding more of their secret smoking weapon — woods found here on the Big Island.
“We’re only using local wood,” Minto said. “We’re using ohia, waiwi (strawberry guava), and keawe, a cousin of mesquite, which gives it a really great flavor.”
TIPS FROM THE PROS:
The Tribune-Herald asked competitors to share a few words of wisdom for average barbecuers who would like to elevate their cooking to the next level. Here is what they said:
• Paul Kealoha, Hilo – “With just a regular piece of meat, you add the right amount of Hawaiian salt and black pepper, and you can’t go wrong with that. It’s all about the seasoning.”
• Kekaulike Kealoha, Puna – “Come out here and talk to the locals. You can learn alot at an event like this.”
• David Vera, owner of burger restaurant Ma‘ona, which will be opening up on Friday in the Hilo Shopping Center – “Keep it low and slow. That’s the key. Everybody has their different spices, but its the temperature that does it.”
• John Penner, of Kohala – “Get lot’s of practice, and find a flavor profile that most people will like. You’ll know it when you find it.”
• Scott Stone, of Kalapana – “Don’t use ketchup in your barbecue sauce. It’s got that high fructose corn syrup. And be sure to smoke your meats, don’t use liquid smoke. Avoid shortcuts.”
SCHEDULE:
July 4
11 a.m. – Chicken Judging
12 p.m. – Pork Spare Ribs Judging
1 p.m. – Pork Judging
2 p.m. – Brisket Judging
Email Colin M. Stewart at cstewart@hawaiitribune-herald.com.