Bears’: new owner, same atmosphere

Bears’ Coffee could be described as Cheers without beers.

It’s the kind of place where everybody knows your name — and you know theirs.

The downtown Hilo coffee shop has new ownership, but regulars expect the family feeling to remain.

That’s because new owner Mary Coursey, who bought Bears’ from former chef/owner Terry Chaffin, has herself enjoyed the place’s laid-back vibe from its diner-style counter and tables.

“This is a place I’ve been coming to … for quite a few years, in fact, even before Terry,” she said. “And I’ve always loved the atmosphere. I love the type of people who come in. It’s fabulous.”

Coursey, who owned the former Banyans Restaurant in Uncle Billy’s Hilo Bay Hotel, assumed the reins of the Keawe Street cafe Oct. 1.

“I will try to introduce some new ideas by doing a special every day, and if something seems to sell pretty good, I’ll put it on the menu. But I’ll try to keep Terry’s menu as it is, as much as possible,” she said.

That will suit Bears’ many regulars just fine, some who have been frequenting the establishment since Jeff and Sally Mermel opened it in 1977 and have remained loyal since.

Chaffin, 70, a structural engineer and bartender before buying Bears’ 11 year ago, said it’s time for him to enjoy his retirement. He has a veritable menagerie at his Pepeekeo Point home, including cows and chickens, to keep him busy.

“It’s been a good run, but it’s time to go,” he said.

Chaffin said the reason for Bears’ continued success is “reasonable prices on food, good food and paying attention to customers.”

During a short break from the kitchen, Chaffin chatted up customers at indoor and sidewalk tables, including a tourist couple from China who said they were told by their hotel staff they had to visit Bears’ because it’s “a landmark.”

Chaffin said he thinks of his customers as family and a lot of first-timers end up being regulars.

“A lot of generations have grown up here,” he said.

Sara Yurtola was one of four generations of family seated at a back table on Chaffin’s final day, Sept. 30. She was enjoying the food and fun with her mother, grandmother and children.

“I’ve been coming here since I was in elementary school. Everybody from elementary school to seniors are here,” she said. “Terry makes us all feel welcome.”

Yurtola’s 5-year-old daughter, Naiya, wore an expression of delight as she attacked a blueberry Belgian waffle as large as her head.

Lei Jack-Segawa said Chaffin is as much neighbor and philanthropist as businessman.

“I know when people didn’t have a place to eat or live, he fed them. He’s from California but he acts like a local,” she said.

One of those people, Russell Ackroyd, said he discovered Bears’ when he moved to Hilo from California.

“Terry’s a great guy,” he said. “He let me work trade for food so I could have a place to live. I was staying in the hostel here and it was awesome. So, ever since then, I would come back and help him out when he needed help, do dishes for him. And I know he’s moving on, but he’ll still be around and I’ll still see him.”

Grace Pajimola, who was eating with her husband, Rudy, said she knows Chaffin will enjoy his retirement.

“He’ll be busy and who knows, he might return,” she said.

Cliff Panis said Bears’ has been a hangout for him since it opened because it’s “personal, quaint, very small-town Hilo.” He noted despite ownership changes through the years the atmosphere has remained the same.

Coursey said she aims to continue the “people-friendly” tradition that’s kept locals and visitors flocking to Bears’ for nearly four decades.

“It’s really people-friendly and I want to keep that,” she said. “In all the different ways, the young, the middle, the older — it doesn’t matter what class you’re in, you’re always welcome here. And I think it makes everybody comfortable.”

Email John Burnett at jburnett@hawaiitribune-herald.com.