Let’s Talk Food: Eggs in baking a yellow cake
I was at my friend Diane’s farm as one of her eight egg-laying chickens announced she laid an egg. These chickens are totally free range, as they are allowed to roam the ranch. This affects the color of their yolks, which, like those you can find in Europe, are dark yellow, almost orange in color.
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According the Mother Earth News, free range chickens — which the United States Department of Agriculture states that in order for a chicken to be free-range it must have access to the outdoors — have these qualities compared to supermarket eggs raised in cages:
• Free range chickens have one-third less cholesterol.
• Have one-fourth less saturated fat.
• Have two-thirds more vitamin A.
• Have two times more omega-3 fatty acids.
• Have three times more vitamin E.
• Have seven times more beta-carotene.
• Have three to six times more vitamin D.
The seven times more beta-carotene gives the yolk a beautiful color that does affect the yellow color in a yellow cake. This beta-carotene is found in a wide range of plants the hen pecks at and eats while foraging on the farm.
So, try this recipe for yellow cake from Cook’s Illustrated with three large free-range eggs and you will see the difference in the color of the cake.
Yellow Layer Cake with Chocolate Frosting
Serves: 10-12
Adjust the oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease two 9-inch round cake pans, line with parchment paper, grease parchment and flour pans. Whisk in a large bowl:
2 1/2 cups (10 ounces) cake flour
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups sugar
In a medium bowl, whisk together:
1 cup buttermilk, at room temperature
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 large free-range egg yolks, at room temperature
Using stand mixer fitted with a whisk, whip on medium-low speed until foamy:
2 large free-range egg whites, at room temperature
Pinch of cream of tartar
After one minute, increase speed to medium-high and whip whites to soft billowy mounds, about one minute. Gradually add and whip until glossy:
1/4 cup sugar
Whip for 2-4 minutes. Transfer to bowl and set aside.
Add flour mixture to now empty mixer bowl. With mixer on low speed, gradually pour butter mixture and mix until almost incorporated, about 15 seconds. Scrape down bowl, then beat on medium-low speed until smooth and fully incorporated, about 15 seconds. Using rubber spatula, stir in one-third of the whipped egg whites, then add remaining two-thirds of whites, gently fold until no white streaks remain. Divide batter evenly between prepared pans, smooth tops with rubber spatula and gently tap pans on counter to releases air bubbles.
Bake cakes until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, between 20 and 22 minutes. Let cakes cool in pans on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cakes from pans, discard parchment and let cool completely, about two hours before frosting.
Frosting:
Process in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds:
2 1/2 sticks or 20 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened to 68 degrees
1 cup confectioners’ sugar (4 ounces)
3/4 cup (2 1/4 ounces) Dutch-processed cocoa
Pinch salt
Add and process until combined:
3/4 cup light corn syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Scrape down bowl, then add:
8 ounces milk, bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, melted and cooled
Process until smooth and creamy, about 15 seconds.
Assembling cake:
Line edges of cake platter with four strips of parchment paper to keep the platter clean. Place one cake layer on prepared platter. Place about 1 1/2 cups frosting in center of cake layer, and, using large spatula, spread in even layer right to edge of cake. Place second cake layer on top, making sure layers are aligned, then frost top in same manner as first layer, this time spreading frosting until slightly over the edge. Gather more frosting on tip of spatula and gently spread icing onto side of cake. Smooth frosting by gently running edge of spatula around cake and leveling ridge that forms around top edge, or create billows by pressing back of spoon into frosting and twirling spoon as you lift away. Carefully pull out pieces of parchment from beneath cake before serving.
Apology to the English
I received an email from Eleanor from England who read my column about food customs around the world. She took offense to my statement that farting was accepted in England as she found the world “fart” offensive and, “Contrary to your statement, English people do have a sense of politeness that goes with the culture and whilst it is a natural occurrence to unexpectedly ‘break wind,’ it is not seen as an excuse for a public announcement for bawdy exchange of offensive words. The word f—— usually is used as vulgar slang and is not a polite term in the everyday living of average English families.”
Eleanor is correct in stating the “not a custom, merely a bodily function!!!!!” and I should have made it clear that although not a custom, it is accepted. In researching this matter, I found breaking wind was in great English literary works such as Dante Alighieri’s “The Inferno,” William Shakespeare’s “A Comedy of Errors” and Geoffrey Chaucer’s “Canterbury Tales,” “let fly a fart as loud as it had been a thunder clap….”
I appreciate feedback from my readers and I stand corrected.
Foodie bites
Coming up in a few weeks, on Sunday, Sept. 13, is Volcano Winery’s 2015 Harvest Festival at the winery at the Volcano Golf Course.
Email me at audreywilson808@gmail.com if you have questions.