Let’s Talk Food: Eggnog in the dairy case now

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If you enjoy drinking eggnog, now is the time to buy it as it is available in the dairy case.

If you enjoy drinking eggnog, now is the time to buy it as it is available in the dairy case.

Food historians think the name “eggnog” came from the English words “nog” from the word “noggin,” meaning a wooden cup, and “grog,” which is strong beer. By the late 18th century, the word “eggnog” became a common Yuletide drink.

Homemade eggnog is said to be unbeatable, but the Food and Drug Administration frowns upon making it with raw eggs. Here is Alton Brown’s recipe for eggnog:

Eggnog

4 egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon

1 pint whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

1 1/4 ounces bourbon

1 1/4 ounces dark rum

1 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

4 egg whites

In a bowl of a stand mixer, beat together the egg yolks and 1/3 cup sugar until the yolks lighten in color and the sugar is completely dissolved. Add the milk, cream, bourbon, rum, nutmeg and stir to combine.

Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer and beat to soft peaks. With the mixer still running, gradually add the 1 tablespoon of sugar and beat until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the mixture. Chill and serve.

The recipe comes with this disclaimer:

The Food Network suggests caution in consuming raw and lightly cooked eggs because of the slight risk of salmonella or other food-borne illness. To reduce this risk, the network recommends you use only fresh, properly refrigerated, clean grade A or AA eggs with intact shells, and avoid contact between the yolks or whites and the shell. For recipes that call for eggs that are raw or undercooked when the dish is served, use shell eggs that were treated to destroy salmonella by pasteurization or another approved method.

•••

This ad in Fine Cooking magazine for Davidson’s Safest Choice Eggs for homemade eggnog is as follows:

Safe Homemade Eggnog

Serves: 20

12 Safest Choice pasteurized eggs, separated

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 quart heavy cream

2 cups whole milk

2-3 cups dark rum, bourbon or brandy (optional)

2 tablespoons vanilla extract (optional)

Freshly grated nutmeg or cinnamon to taste

Place eggs in large bowl. Beat with electric mixer until combined. Gradually add sugar, beating until mixture is thick and pale yellow. Stir in cream and milk, then rum and vanilla if desired.

Cover and refrigerate until chilled or as long as overnight. Just before serving, beat room temperature egg whites with electric mixer until soft peaks form. Stir in egg yolk mixture. Then, gently fold in beaten egg whites.

Pour eggnog into punch bowl. Sprinkle with nutmeg.

•••

I buy eggnog for baking one of my favorite holiday pound cakes, which I will be baking since our son, Neil, will be home for the holidays from Augsburg, Germany.

Eggnog Pound Cake with Rum Glaze

Serves: 20

Have all ingredients at room temperature.

Cake:

In a small bowl, soak for 15 minutes:

1/2 cup dried currants

2 tablespoons dark rum

Adjust rack in lower third of oven, preheat to 325 degrees (or 350 if pan does not have a dark finish or silicone).

Spray a bundt pan with cooking spray with flour. Sift:

3 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

In bowl with an electric mixer, cream until light and fluffy, scraping bowl occasionally:

2 sticks unsalted butter

2 cups sugar

Add, one at a time:

3 large eggs

At low speed, add dry ingredients in four additions, alternating with:

1 cup eggnog mixed with 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

End with flour mixture. Gently fold in soaked currants. Spoon batter into prepared pan, bake for 55-65 minutes or until cake springs back when lightly touched in the center. Cool upright in pan on rack for 10 minutes. Silicone pans will take longer because they do not conduct heat like a metal pan. Invert cake and brush glaze when cake is still warm.

Glaze:

2 tablespoons dark rum

2 tablespoons water

3/4 cup confectioners sugar

Small bites

• The British drink “posset,” a hot, milky, ale-like drink in the medieval days, was drank with eggs and figs by monks. Because milk, eggs and sherry were for the rich only, their eggnog often was toasted to prosperity and good health.

• In Mexico, their eggnog is called “rompope” and in Puerto Rico, “coquito” with coconut milk is their drink of choice.

• Currants are a variety of grapes, native to the Mediterranean, that are dried. They are much smaller than raisins, but if you’re in a pinch you can substitute them with chopped raisins, dried cranberries or dried cherries. Soak them in the rum after they are chopped.

• All three recipes call for freshly grated nutmeg. There is no other way to use nutmeg in a recipe. Please invest in a fine grater and buy some whole nutmegs. Do not use ground nutmeg. The wonderful aroma is only achieved by grating whole nutmeg.

• I am not sure if Davidson’s Safest Choice eggs are available in Hilo. Please let me know via email if you find them. It is amazing that in Japan, eating raw eggs is quite common and there is no thought of getting salmonella. We grew up eating scrambled raw eggs over hot rice (tamago-gohan) and I never contracted salmonella. I can’t help but wonder if the conditions that the laying chickens are in are not suitable and that is why we have this salmonella scare.

Email me at audreywilson 808@gmail.com if you have questions.