Let’s Talk Food: Nine courses of education
The Hawaii Community College Culinary Program started a pilot project in the spring semester with their second-year students. Under the direction of program director chef Brian Hirata and chef instructor chef Karen Daniels, the students, who will graduate in May, will have training in fine dining and a knowledge of wines, with nine-course dinners once a month.
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The first nine-course dinner was hosted in March and the second for this semester was in April. Ryan Kadota of Kadota Liquors matched wines with the food served by the students. HCC’s Agricultural Department provided the culinary students with the fresh vegetables.
The amuse-bouche was tomato sorbet served over arugula pesto. The garnish, from the ag department, was a globe basil leaf. Amuse-bouche, or mouth amuser, is a bite-size pupu that is not ordered but served gratis and is the chef’s selection. It often gives you a glimpse of what is to come — this teaser made us curious as to what was in store.
The amuse-bouche was served with Capsaldo Prosecco, a very crisp and dry sparkling wine.
The seafood trio, the first course, was Kauai shrimp and scallop ceviche, chili-lime granite, twice-cooked tako tossed with ag baby salad or pipinola shoots. The wine selected with this course was Sileni Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. Typical of a New Zealand wine, very clean and steely, it worked perfectly with the sourness of the ceviche and the granite.
The second course, ag Caesar salad, had a Hondashi Caesar dressing, broiled saba and nori shrimp chips. Served with Conundrum White Blend wine, it went well with the oiliness of the saba, or mackerel.
The third course’s presentation was creative, with a Big Island abalone “ishiyaki” (translated to “rock grill”), dashi radish, warabi and dried seafood salad. The river rock, sitting on rock salt, was super hot and kept the abalone grilled even when the dish was presented to the table. It was served with Bokisch Verdejo or Lodi. This wine is made from Spanish grapes and in the style of Spain, and matched perfectly with the abalone.
Course four, lobster mousse capelletti with black vinegar gastrique, lobster chili oil and ag chard kim chee. It was served with The Seeker Riesling Mosel, a very typical German riesling, which is fruity with tastes of pineapple and apple. It worked well with seafood.
Course five was konbu cured ahi “Frozen Pa‘akai,” spicy avocado puree, tobiko, pickled shiso flowers, toasted bubu arare, ponzu served with Chateau Mont-Redon Cotes du Rhone. The sliced ahi was placed on a block of Himalayan pink salt, which cured the raw fish with some saltiness. That worked with the Cotes du Rhone.
Course six was called “Luau Flavors,” with crispy pork belly, fried pa‘iai, lomi tomato, green onion oil and luau leaf. The wine selected, Crios Rose of Malbec from Argentina, was rather light and Kadota, who sat next to me, and I agreed that the Cotes du Rhone from course five worked better with this course. Kadota was given a description of the menu, which is sometimes a challenge without tasting, and announced to the group that they could continue drinking the Cotes du Rhone with this course.
Course seven was Duck gallantin “Chinese Flavors,” with duck hash force meat, ag black bean vegetables, duck glace and crispy angel hair noodles, served with my favorite wine of the evening, Kendall-Jackson Jackson Estate Pinot Noir. The thought process of this course was well executed and the smoothness of the wine worked perfectly with the duck flavors.
The eighth course was called Paniolo-style dried beef, with Keawe ash-cooked baby Yukons, Hawaiian chili port reduction, onion jam, grilled Hamakua mushrooms, and was served with Trinchero Meritage. Very thoughtful, this course was well done and the complexity of the Trinchero Meritage went well with the beef.
The last course, “Halo Halo,” was lilikoi panna cotta and coconut milk “shave ice” with tropical fruits and ube. It was served with Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti, an excellent dessert wine. The take on halo halo, using panna cotta on the bottom, made an excellent way to end the night.
I am so proud of what the graduating second-year students created and executed. They learned so much putting this dinner together, with preparing the courses and learning about the wines and why certain wines are served with different foods and flavors.
Congratulations, Matt Akiyama, Isaiah Prince Badua, Don Baker, Darrel Egami, Rex Fiesta, Donna Glacy Galacgac, Ailyn Galleta, Jayson Gonong, Jeffery Gonong, Kanani Greene-Akina, Bryson Ita, Matthew Kitamura, Antoinette Nihipali, John Christian Pascual, Abraham Santos, Kaiea Saragosa, John Carlos Tadeo, Jericho Tobin, Julian Tongpalan, Ilaiasi Tua and Star Waiamau-Faiumu! Great job!
I know you will not have any problems finding a great job in the culinary field.
Foodie bites
• Check the schedule on the Ka‘u Coffee Festival, which starts this weekend.
• To all the mothers, happy Mother’s Day on Sunday. May you have a wonderful day!
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.