The history of Mardi Gras goes back to medieval Europe, through Rome and Venice to the French House of Bourbons. The traditional revelry of “Boeuf Gras,” or fatted calf followed France to her colonies in America.
On March 2, 1699, French-Canadian explorer Jean Baptiste Le Moyne Sieur de Bienville arrived south of New Orleans and named it “Pointe du Mardi Gras” as they arrived on the eve of the festive holiday.
In 1703, the tiny settlement of Fort Louis de la Mobile celebrated America’s first Mardi Gras.
New Orleans was established in 1718 by Bienville and by the 1730s, Mardi Gras was celebrated openly there. There were elegant society balls and no parades like today.
A dish, Oysters Bienville, is named after the French explorer, Bienville. Here is Emeril Lagasse’s recipe for it:
Oysters
Bienville
Serves 2
Rock salt for baking
2 strips bacon, finely chopped
1/2 cup chopped onions
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1-1/2 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup whole milk
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup finely chopped white button mushrooms
1/4 pound medium-size shrimp, peeled, deveined and chopped
2 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped green onions, green parts only
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley leaves
1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten
1 dozen freshly shucked oysters, drained and deeper bottom shell rinsed and reserved for baking
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Spread a 1/2 inch thick layer of rock salt onto a large baking sheet and across the bottoms of 2 large plates. Set aside.
Fry the bacon until just crisp in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, salt, cayenne and cook, stirring for 2 minutes.
Add the garlic and butter, and cook, stirring for 2 minutes or until the butter melts. Add the flour, and stir slowly and constantly, cook for another 2 minutes. Add the milk and wine and stir to blend.
Reduce the heat to medium, then add the mushrooms and shrimp.
Stir and fold to mix and cook until the mixture is thick, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the Parmesan, lemon juice, green onions, and parsley and stir to blend.
Remove from the heat, add the egg yolk, and blend well. Let cool to room temperature.
Arrange the reserved oyster shells on the prepared baking sheet. Put 1 oyster in each shell and top with about 1-1/2 tablespoons of the sauce, spreading the sauce evenly out to the edges of the shell to completely cover the oyster.
(Alternatively, pipe the sauce over the oysters.) Bake until the sauce is lightly browned and the oysters begin to curl around the edges, about 20 minutes.
Using tongs or a spatula, carefully transfer the hot shells to the salt-covered plated and serve immediately.
• • •
Between New Orleans and Baton Rouge is a small town called Gonzales. It is known as the Jambalaya Capital of the World. Jambalaya is a great way to clean out the refrigerator.
Thrifty Cajun and Creole cooks created Jambalaya to make a filling meal out of leftovers.
For Jambalaya, use long grain white rice, which grows well in Louisiana.
Chicken and Andouille
Sausage
Jambalaya
Serves 8
Saute in lightly coated oil until cooked through:
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken, cut into bite-size pieces
Add:
2 cups onions, chopped (1 large onion)
1 bell pepper, chopped
2 stalks celery
Cook until vegetables are tender. Add:
3 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
Add and stir until coated in the oil:
2 cups long-grain rice
Add:
1 (16 ounces) can tomatoes, crushed, with liquid
3 cups hot chicken broth
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound andouille sausage, sliced
2 cups smoked ham, diced
Bring mixture to a boil. Cover and let simmer for about 30 minutes or until rice is cooked.
Just before serving , add:
4 green onions, sliced
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
Check seasoning, add salt and pepper to taste
Foodie notes
Hawaii Community College’s Culinary Program’s Cafeteria and Bamboo Hale are open for take out Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday.
For the Cafeteria, call 808-934-2559 and from today until Thursday, the Bamboo Hale is offering the Mexican Standard Menu. Call 808-934-2591 for take out orders.
The four-course Mexican Standard Menu, for $16.95 includes: Choice of appetizer: Elote (Mexican corn off the cob) or Empanada served with a sour cream dip; Salads: Caesar or Arugula Salad; Soup: Sweet Potato or Posole Soup (pork or chicken and hominy garnished with vegetables) and Entree: Chicken Enchilada or Tortas Pambazo (A sandwich made of a particular type of bread stuffed with potatoes and chorizo and then drenched in a guajillo sauce).
For an additional $4.50, you can also order dessert — Flan or Tres Leches (cake topped with a cream syrup made of evaporated milk, condensed milk and heavy cream).
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.
