It’s squash season, and we’re all about delicata

This time of year, as the light slants and temperatures drop, all I really want for dinner is pasta. It’s the key to a luxuriously easy meal when tossed with the robust vegetables of autumn.

As much as I love winter squash, I have often resisted using it, not wanting to deal with removing the tough peel and the messy seeds. But right now, delicata squash is at its best. The skins are so tender that you can eat the whole thing (after removing the seeds). Delicata is super easy to cook. It’s smaller in size so one easily feeds two. It’s nicknamed “sweet potato squash” for its lush, velvety texture and the way it caramelizes in a hot pan.

To prepare delicata, simply slice it in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and stringy flesh and cut the seeded squash halves into half-moon slices for the prettiest effect. Now it’s ready to roast on a sheet pan (first drizzled with a little oil and salt) in a high-heat oven.

I like delicata best when it’s butter-steamed with a little sage tossed in. Butter steaming cooks the vegetables directly in the butter and is one of the easiest techniques for concentrating flavors. The butter and vegetable juices meld into a wonderful sauce when a little pasta cooking water and wine or stock is added to the pan. It’s best when the butter has begun to brown and the squash starts to caramelize and turn nutty. Toss in cooked pasta, scatter the whole thing with fresh herbs and cheese, and you have a satisfying vegetarian dinner or a hearty side, a taste of our gorgeous fall.

Delicata Squash, Spinach and Sage-Butter Pasta

Serves 4.

This easy pasta dish shows off delicata’s greatest qualities. The slices turn tender, sweet and nutty as they caramelize in butter that becomes the base for a luscious sauce. No need to peel the squash first, as the skin is soft and adds texture to the final dish. A handful of fresh spinach adds color and taste; kale or broccoli would work equally well. Vary the cheese as you please. From Beth Dooley.

8 oz. pasta

Coarse salt

4 tbsp. (¼ c.) butter, cut into chunks

1 lb. delicata squash, halved and seeded, cut into ¼-inch slices

¼ c. peeled, sliced shallot

2 tsp. chopped fresh sage

Generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste

¼ c. pasta cooking water

¼ c. white wine (or more pasta cooking water)

6 to 8 oz. fresh spinach leaves, torn

Fresh cracked black pepper

1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar, or more to taste

2 to 3 oz. chèvre or mozzarella

Directions

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Drop in the pasta and cook until al dente, about 10 to 12 minutes. During the last couple of minutes of cooking, remove about 1 cup of the pasta water and set aside. Drain the pasta, cover and set aside.

Set a large skillet over medium heat and add the butter. When the butter starts to foam, add the squash slices and shallot and cook, tossing, until lightly browned, about 3 to 5 minutes. Cover the pan and allow the squash to cook a little more until it becomes tender, about 1 minute. Remove the cover, add the sage and red pepper flakes, ¼ cup of the pasta water and wine (or more pasta water). Stir and add the spinach and cook until wilted. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding pepper and more salt. If it seems dry, add a little more wine or pasta water. Toss in the pasta and before serving, drizzle with the balsamic and dot with the cheese.