Volterra and San Gimignano: Two sides of northern Tuscany

San Gimignano's distinctive skyline features 14 medieval towers. (photo by Rick Steves)

The vibrant, artsy town of Volterra was an important trading center for the ancient Etruscan people. (photo by Addie Mannan)

I’m in Volterra, my favorite hill town in Tuscany, sitting under rustic, noble stones at the base of a palace that made commoners feel small six centuries ago. Bats burst through the floodlights amid ghostly towers held together with rusted iron corsets.