Let’s Talk Food: Potato salads

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Most families have a special and possibly secret ingredient for potato salad. It is so subjective and you can decide which is your favorite.

A tropical Southern potato salad may contain diced celery, onion, mustard, and pickles or pickle relish. The pickles could be of your choice, either sweet or dill pickles.

Warm German potato salad was first introduced in 1630. Potatoes were so revered that King Frederick II of Prussia stationed guards to protect his potato fields.

Cooked potatoes are tossed with a warm sweet-and-sour vinaigrette and topped with bacon bits.

Amish potato salads have either sweet or savory flavors. It contains celery, pickle relish, onions, hard-cooked eggs and mayonnaise, with vinegar and a generous amount of sugar.

Russian potato salad contains potatoes, diced carrots, peas, and meats such as ham or chicken, mayonnaise and pickles. It was invented by French chef Lacien Olivier at his Moscow restaurant L’Hermitage and was originally a gourmet treat featuring ingredients such as caviar and crayfish tails.

In the 1960s and 70s, where it was known as Salad Olivier, it became popular in Iran as a must-have banquet dish with a squeeze of lemon.

In Spain, you can find versions of potato salad in tapas bars.

In the Philippines, you may find pineapple as an added ingredient.

Could you consider a Nicoise salad as a potato salad? It doesn’t contain mayonnaise and might be a great dish for those who do not like mayonnaise.

Potatoes are boiled, then sauteed in a mix of seasonings that include cumin, turmeric, mustard seeds and coriander to make Bombay potato salad. Fresh herbs and onions are scattered on top.

Creole potato salad is a mix of French, Spanish, Black and Caribbean food traditions, combined with the region’s bounty of seafood and game. Creole mustard, a grainy mustard, is an important ingredient, along with garlic, cayenne, paprika and thyme. Potatoes, celery and onions, as well as Worcestershire sauce, diced pepper and olives, are added, along with ketchup and horseradish.

Japanese potato salad is a bit much mushier as the potatoes are lightly crushed instead of being cubing. Mayonnaise, usually the Japanese Kewpie brand, hard-cooked eggs, rice vinegar, finely diced cucumber and thin slivers of carrot may be added for texture and color.

And then we have the Hawaiian-style potato and macaroni salad, often a scoop served when ordering a plate lunch. Each restaurant had their own recipe, some simple and others with added ingredients like hard-cooked eggs, shredded carrots and diced onions.

My mother loved to make macaroni-potato salad and she would always experiment with different ingredients. I remember she once added finely shredded cabbage that she salted and then thoroughly drained by squeezing it with her hands until the cabbage had very little water. She made it a few times and then went back to her traditional way of making it, with a can of crab that was picked over and squeezed of any liquid. Most people do not add crab in their salads as it is costly and there are folks allergic to it.

Here’s a recipe for Japanese Potato Salad by MasterClass:

Japanese Potato Salad

4 medium to large russet potatoes, halved or quartered

1/2 cup Kewpie brand mayonnaise

2 teaspoon rice vinegar

1 teaspoon Japanese-style hot mustard

2 Persian cucumbers, sliced

1 carrot, grated

1/2 red onion, finely chopped

3 slices deli meat, such a ham, torn into bite-sized pieces

2 hard-cooked eggs, diced

2 scallions, thinly sliced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place the potatoes in a large pot and fill it with water until the potatoes are covered. Season the water with salt, and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat.

After 15 minutes, when the potatoes are cooked and can be easily pierced with a paring knife (I use a wooden skewer to test for doneness), drain well, transfer to a large bowl, and let them cool to room temperature. In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, rice vinegar and hot mustard.

Using a potato masher or fork, mash the potatoes, leaving a few larger pieces intact. Add the dressing, cucumber slices, carrot, red onion, ham, eggs and scallions and gently combine. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust as needed.

Emeril Lagasse’s recipe for Creole Potato Salad is as follows:

Creole Potato Salad

Serves 8

5 cups peeled potatoes, cut into large chunks

3 cups water, or to cover

2 eggs

1-1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup minced stuffed olives

1/4 cup minced green bell peppers

1/4 cup minced celery

2 tablespoons minced onions

2 tablespoons minced green onion

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons Creole mustard

1 tablespoon minced dill pickle

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon olive juice

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt

Paprika or cayenne, for garnish (optional)

Put potatoes, water, eggs and 1 teaspoon salt in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until the potatoes are fork tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and chill in refrigerator. Place cold tap water over eggs to cool. Peel and dice eggs. Combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl and stir to blend. Fold in the chilled potatoes and diced eggs.

Garnish with paprika or cayenne pepper.

HCC culinary program

Please check out menus online at http:/hawaii.hawaii.edu/cafeteria for the I Ola No Ke Kino (Cafeteria) or call (808) 934-2591 for menu specials for Da ‘Ohana Corner Cafe. There are designated 15-minute parking stalls for take-out orders.

Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.