Let’s Talk Food: Update on Volcano wasabi
I have written in the past about Lance Yamashiro’s Volcano wasabi and how the wasabi growers in Japan were astonished to see that it can be grown out of running water. In Japan, wasabi is planted along flowing rivers.
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I went to visit Jeff McCall of McCall’s Farm on Haunani Road in Volcano to check on his wasabi plants that he bought from Lance. They are doing well in pots because Jeff babies these fickle plants.
He needs to water them four times a day under a greenhouse. They do not like direct sunlight and love the cool weather of Volcano.
Fresh wasabi is more delicate in taste and not very hot. As Jeff put it, “Fresh wasabi has the heat without the burn.” When you put fresh wasabi in your mouth, there is complexity as the flavors change while you chew it. It is unlike the powdered wasabi we are used to with our sushi where the wasabi burns our nostrils.
Growing wasabi has become popular around the world as it is now grown in New Zealand, Tasmania, coastal Oregon and Vancouver. Every three years, Jeff buys tissue culture from a company in Vancouver and replenishes his stock.
Japan wasabi growers found that after three generations, the wasabi is prone to disease.
Jeff explained that wasabi does not produce heat until it is grated or chewed. After it is grated and exposed to air, wasabi actually breaks down in 15 minutes. That is why at high end sushi bars, fresh wasabi is grated in front of you. (I was just in Tokyo and saw many varieties of wasabi graters in ceramic, metal and even shark’s skin.)
That made me realize that the dried “wasabi” in tubes mainly consists of horseradish since the wasabi would have lost its heat and only contributed the green color.
Jeff started to farm right after college and besides wasabi, also raises flowers, blueberries, strawberries, artichokes, arugula, basil, Swiss chard, cilantro, dill, mint, radish, spinach and broccoli. Thank you, Jeff, for making all these wonderful vegetables, herbs and flowers available to us who want to support our local farmers.
I hope more local restaurants support McCall Farms and use his wonderful wasabi.
I needed to update information about local wasabi because I am taking the best recipes from “What the Big Island Likes to Eat” cookbook and “Aunty Audrey’s Big Island Eats” cookbook and editing a new cookbook. I am under deadline with my publisher to complete my corrections by this week.
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Natural Pacific Tofu is now owned by Emma Cantu and Jessica Mata. Emma used to own Big Island Mexican Foods, which was next to Big Island Tortilla Company. Emma had wonderful home-style Mexican dishes and served this special salsa that she served with her taquitos and tacos.
This recipe is in “Aunty Audrey’s Big Island Eats” cookbook:
Emma’s Green Salsa
Makes: 2 cups
1/2 cup avocado meat (about 1/2 of a medium Big Island avocado)
1/2 to 1 jalapeno pepper (to taste)
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1/2 medium sweet onion
1 pound (about 7) tomatillos
Salt and pepper to taste
Cut open the avocado, remove the pit and spoon out 1/2 cup of meat. Peel and crush the garlic cloves; trim and seed the jalapeno. Peel and coarsely chop the onion.
Bring a large pot full of water to a boil and turn off the heat. Remove the papery outer skin of the tomatillos, place in the water and soak for 5 minutes.
Remove the tomatillos from the water and place in a blender with the avocado, garlic and onion. Add only half of the jalapeno. Puree until smooth. Taste. Is it hot enough for you? If not, add the other half of the jalapeno and puree again. Remove from the blender, put into a serving bowl and add salt and pepper to taste.
Foodie bites
• Hawaii Community College’s Culinary Program’s Bamboo Hale is featuring the foods of France from today until Friday. The European standard menu also is available. Call 934-2591 for reservations from 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m.
• The Rotary Club of South Hilo’s Hilo Huli is scheduled for Sunday, May 7, at Coconut Island. Members of the club all have their tickets on hand, so please support this fun event. As of today, we have the following vendors: Wiki Fresh Restaurant making mini chicken bowl samplers; Sweet Thunder Products making a delectable chirashi dish; Short N Sweet Bakery and Café doing “sprinkle nachos”; Hilo Hawaiian Hotel/Queen’s Court Restaurant with blackened shrimp over Tuscan orzo with Sriracha aioli; Liko Lehua At Pauahi cooking up their popular crab cakes; Mehana Brewing and Hawaii Nui Brewing with their beer; Volcano Winery and Pepsi-Cola.
As you can see, the vendors always put their best foot forward with some wonderful food. As more vendors sign up, I will update you on the dishes being served as it gets closer.
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.